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5 Cuts To A “Perfect” Cross-Cut Sled

The cross cut sled is probably the most important jig in your shop. I will explain the theory and calculations to enable anyone to get a sled dead on square. We’ll also show a few tips and techniques for constructing the sled.

You can purchase the full size mdf templates of the front and back fences at our store: Cross Cut Sled Fence Templates

Material List

Runners: 5/16″ x 3/4″ x 30″
Base: 1/2″ x 34″ x 30″
Front Fence: 1-1/2″ x 5″ x 30″
Rear Fence: 1-1/2″ x 5″ x 26″

Specific Tools Used

Mitutoyo Dial Calipers
4″ Brayer

28 thoughts on “5 Cuts To A “Perfect” Cross-Cut Sled

  1. Hey there,

    Thank you for the great video. Something about being able to be that accurate, just gives me “My fix” . lol
    I did however, have a question. How would I approach doing a 45 degree sled with that level of accuracy? Im also going to be making a new shooting board now that my table saw is square to the blade to .001. Thanks again.

    1. Hi Jose,
      I will be getting back to making videos soon. The 45 degree is on my list. Thanks.

      William

  2. William,
    Thank you for your witty and exceptionally informative video.
    Do I need to alter the error ratio calculation technique if the sled holds the wood on the right side of the blade instead of the left?
    The sled I am making is intended to cut 62″ lengths of 2×6. My Bosch 4100-09 table saw has a right side extension that will allow me to make the sled a total of 40″ wide, with 28 3/4″ to the right of the blade and 11 5/8″ to the left of it. I will not have any outfeed tables, so in order to support the lumber I will make the wide slide of my sled to the right of the blade, unless you advise me otherwise.
    1. Since I will be holding the lumber to the right of the blade as I make each cut, should I also be doing my “5-cuts” calculations on the right? That is to say, should I pivot on the left (short) side of my front fence as I check for square adjusting the right (long) side? This would be the reverse of the error ratio calculation technique in your video.
    2. Is there a better way to make accurate, repeatable lumber cuts on a worksite table saw other than building an oversized sled?
    Any guidance you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
    Glenn DeSoto

    1. Hi Glenn,
      The calculations and formula is the same except you make your 5 cuts on the left side. As for making repeatable, accurate cuts on a worksite saw you’ll need to have stops. depends on how long of a cut you might add extensions on your sled. Hope this helps.
      William

  3. great video on making a sled. what do you think about using corian for a fence or runners?

    1. That will work also as long as the fence is flat.

  4. William, are the dimensions for the front and back sled the same?

    1. Hi Edward,

      You can find the cut list and all dimensions in the video description. Just click on “show more” and you’ll see it there. Thanks.

  5. 9X and not even close. somehow every time i get close approximately .012 and once .007 the more i try to get it closer it goes astray. currently i’m chasing .020 back and forth.
    There has to be something I’m not doing correctly. ARGH

    1. Hi Don, Make sure your fence is flat. I had a similar situation. I check it by drawing pencil lines across my fence and took it to my jointer where I lay down some sandpaper and sand it slightly and to my surprise it wasn’t flat so I kept sanding it till all pencil marks are gone. My fence was convex so depends on where I was holding it my test piece was rocking ever so slightly altering my results. Hope this helps. Good luck.

      William

      1. Thanks for the help sir!
        Special thanks for taking the time to help novices by making the video. Your time will help many. I’d love to take a class with you.

    2. Well I scraped all my previous work and started over. Build new sled n did 5 cuts. Was off by .002″ so I’m done! Good enough for a non-engineer and I don’t care what went wrong. All that matters is .002 baby

      1. .002 is awesome. That is what I call square. Congrats.

  6. Thank you for the thorough video, Ive been impressed with the results that my crosscut sled has given me using your method! However, I’ve been thinking about how to alter the equation to dial in a picture frame jig sled to cut 45s instead of 90s. Any thoughts on how alter the 5 cut method and apply it to 45s?

  7. I’m working my way through building the cross-cut sled but have a question. I cut the runners and got the same sound when I lightly finger tapped them into the slots as on the video. Individually they seemed to move fine in the slots. When I attached them to the base the movement resistance is much more than the collective resistance to before they were attached to the base.

    I wonder if the miter slots are not “perfectly” parallel. Have you seen that before? My saw is a vintage Unisaw.

    I’ve tried marking sides of the runners with a pencil hoping I could determine where the rubbing was occurring but the maple is so burnished the pencil hardly leaves any graphite. I’m hesitant to just start randomly sanding the runners because I’m worried I’ll create excessive “slop” in the sled. Do you have any suggestions?

  8. Hi William,
    Made the sled and with the 5 cut process got within .002. I did make a mistake the first time which really confused and frustrated me. With the rectangular piece to the left of the blade I mad the first cut but I rotated the piece counter clockwise and continued doing that for the rest of the cuts. Error magnified! Looked at the video again and notice that the rotation is clockwise i.e the first cut line against the fence…end of problem. Might want to emphasis that a little more for us dummies.
    Thanks again,

  9. Hi William!
    Thank You for the detailed video and for simple and original metod “5 Cuts”! 🙂
    I was build my table saw from hand circular saw and from OSB pieces, from the remnants of laminate flooring and debris of old office desks. When I started working, it was not imagination that slots should be and how far from the blade. All done intuitively. Because I had no more precise tool, all the details I cut the same circular saw, using a guide line.
    When I put a circular saw into table, I started to build sled. Your video helped me a lot.
    And yesterday I finally made a “five cuts.”
    How do you think it passed my sled your test? My final piece has dimensions of 12.63 mm and 12.67mm. I’m pleased 🙂
    However, first I made a mistake and made correction in the opposite direction, increasing error.
    Now, thanks to you and Instrutstables (from which I came to your site) I can cut to within 0.04 mm
    Once again, thank you!

    1. Thank you for your comment. It never gets old hearing the 5 cut video helped someone. Congrats.

      William

  10. So that I understand, is the fence you would be pushing on during use, the front or rear fence? Since one would be pushing the sled, I would think that would be the “rear” fence. When I look at the size descriptions above, it shows the front fence is longer (30″) than the rear fence (26″). But when I look at the pictures it looks like the longer fence would be on the end you’re pushing on which to me is the rear fence.
    Thank you!

    1. Hi Myron,

      The longer fence that you’re pushing I called the front because I’m standing in front of it and the shorter fence is towards the back. Hope this clarify things. Thanks for the comment.

      1. Thank you William for the clarification. I had it wrong.

        Respectfully
        Myron

  11. Sir, the suggested dimensions for the sled are as follows:
    Runners: 5/16″ x 3/4″ x 30″
    Base: 1/2″ x 34″ x 30″
    Front Fence: 1-1/2″ x 5″ x 30″
    Rear Fence: 1-1/2″ x 5″ x 26″
    My question is what would be a suggested Base dimensions if I wanted to make a smaller sled. I can ratio the fence dimensions. Is there a practical lower size limit for the base. For example I am thinking of a 20×24 or a 24×24. Do these dimensions make sense to you? Pros and Cons of making it smaller.
    Enjoyed your video. Thanks

    1. Fit it to your saw. Having it wider means you will have better support for longer work pieces and the ability to clamp stop blocks along the fence. Larger from front to back means you can cut wider panels. You will also want to adjust the front to back dimension so it does not fall off the back of the saw if you don’t have an outfeed table.

      1. Thanks…As I started to work on a sled I am not clear on a couple of points.
        Standing in front of the saw (normal cutting position with the fence to my right) and I place the sled base centered on the blade kerf is the offset of 1-1/2 to 2″ accomplished by moving the base towards the fence (right)or away from the fence (left)? Does it make a difference?
        After the offset the rear and front fence are centered on the blade…is this correct?
        Appreciate your help.

        1. Hi Jesus,

          It does make a difference. You want to off set it away from the fence so that the shorter side will be be near the fence. The fence is offset and is center to the sled. Hope this helps.

          William

          1. HI William,
            Yes that clears things up for me. Thanks for your quick response…appreciate it.

  12. Dear Sir

    Are there PDF plans available to understand the size and amount of material needed for the cross-cut sled?

    Many Thanks

    Michael Pease

    1. We don’t currently offer paper or downloadable plans for the sled. It would differ table saw to table saw. We offer mdf fence templates which would help determine the width. You can see these here. http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/shop/cross-cut-sled-fence-templates/

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