Fixing a “Not so Perfect” Mitered Joint
December 27, 2011 by William · 22 Comments
Making miter joints are never easy, especially on long cuts. Here is a simple technique that can cover up a multitude of sins. it will also take some of the stress out of cutting perfect miters. This technique saved me a few time when I was making miters for Pantry cabinets and Home Theaters where the length of cuts are close to 8 feet.
William Ng comes from an engineering background and uses a similar approach in his woodworking. Precision, accuracy and efficiency are emphasized in his teaching. His sense of humor, combined with his passion for woodworking makes for an enjoyable learning experience.
Thanks for the education. As always I greatly enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your comment. It’s always good to hear from you.
Does this technique work for both paint and stain grade appilcations or just paint grade?
This technique works for all finishes. Don’t let the glue scare you. This was a last second decision to shoot the video. When I saw the gap, I didn’t want to miss the opportunity for a video shoot. I took all the clamps off and made a mad dash for my camera. I wanted to shoot it before the glue dry. As you can tell, my voice was a little higher pitch and I talked a bit faster. I forgot to set the audio to the correct channel. That’s why you hear an echo in my voice. I was not prepared. I usually have a wet rag handy to wipe off any excess glue and sand to 280 grit afterwards. I’ve used this technique for over tens years on many of my work and never had a call back or complaint. `Nobody wants to see a butt joint anymore. Miter joints are in. Use this method to blend the two miters together and it’ll look like you constructed it with one solid piece of wood. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Wow that’s great. As an early-stage amateur, I love seeing how other people recover from mistakes or problem situations. Thanks.
I assume you are using hide glue?
I just use regular white glue.
Hi Bill, just happened onto your site following Boris’s walnut chair build. Love the treatment of the edge. I have burnished before, but never used glue for fear of issues with staining later. Do you have any issues with staining? Are their any further steps you use? I saw you mentioned using a wet rag, any other tips?
Thanks in advance!
Hi John, I don’t usually use that much glue. I was in a panic mode and was unprepared for the video shoot. Yes, I use a wet rag to get the glue off asap and give it a good sanding over. That’s it. No tricks, it’s really that simple. Done it for over ten years and never had a call back or complaint. Maybe the next finishing class I’ll use the cabinet for demonstration and get it on video.
Why were you in a hurry?
Hi Brentt, When I was making the cabinet for my garage, I was not planning on shooting a video. But when I saw the gap I thought this would be a great opportunity to show how I fix things and would make a interesting topic for a video shoot. I took all the clamps off and made a mad dash for my camera and try to get it on video before the glue dry.
That “fixing the not so perfect mitered joint” is an absolutely awesome thing to see and actually do. It is the small things in life that you learn in woodworking that make the biggest difference. Thanks
Just waiting on the new cross sled video
A question. When you say you use regular white glue, is that like Elmers Glue All? Or some other brand of white glue.
I’ve used this technique a lot, even mixing a batch to put into odd spots such as dovetails, until I came to oak. Natural tannins interact with the glue and discolor the wood. Woods with these properties require the use of hide glue. Use an off-cut first if unsure.
Would you be able to use this technique on end grain miters e.g. boxes with miter joints on the sides? Great tip thanks for sharing.
I have use it on end grain miters. Not as easy as long grain. Depends on the wood it tends to crumble a bit. Sorry for the delayed response, was tied up teaching a couple of big classes.
Would you change your order if you were going to chamfer or ease the edge. Would you do the ease the edge (or chamfer) first then fix the gap, or vice versa.
BTW, loved the video. Learned a real pearl here.
Hi Alan, Sorry for the delayed response. Had a couple of big classes teaching. When I burnish the wood, I ease the edge and sanding rounds it over a bit. The bigger the gap the bigger the round over. I would be careful about chamfering the corners because I don’t really know how deep the wood came together. Using this method I would stick with a round over. Either way I would fix the gap first before I ease the edges whether I choose to chamfer or round over. Hope this helps. Thanks.
William,
Thanks for the video. I usually use wood filler but, I will be trying this technique on the legs of an Arts & Craft style bed that I am currently building with 45 degree lock miter legs. I hope to get out to one of your plane building classes at the end of the year. Thanks again and Cheers Todd
Thanks Todd. Hope to see you later in the year.
Very good tip. Thanks!!!!!!